Wednesday, 9 October 2013

Toscana 2013

Thursday, 26 September 2013

We were staying at San Donato which is well-positioned off the Siena-Florence road.  It is a very small village whose centre is closed to traffic.  We stayed in a B&B, Le Terrazze del Chianti, run by a couple from Naples who have completed the premises in a very sympathetic way.  There were just 5 bedrooms with a lovely terrace and beautiful views of the surrounding Chianti hills.
View from our room 

We had forgotten how hilly Tuscany is, so the ride was a good workout.  Some of the descents into Greve in Chianti were very steep and we were thankful we were not riding in the opposite direction.  The climb up to Panzano was steady and very pleasant.  We stopped for a simple lunch at the main square before riding down to the river and up to Piazza back to San Donato.


San Donato-Sambuca-Badia di Passignano-Greve in Chianti-Panzano in Chianti-Piazza-San Donato

The next day, we took a shorter ride just to Castellina in Chianti, the next village.  It is a long drag up but a great ride back.  Then we went into Florence to watch the Men’s Under-23 Road Race.

Florence is now swamped with tourists eating slices of pizza and drinking Coke along the streets.  The city cannot take this punishment much longer. 

We were recommended a very traditional trattoria in the city centre.  It is frequented by the local shopkeepers and workers, always a good sign.  The food was excellent and atmosphere chatty and happy.  It is not for those who want to linger over a glass of wine as the management prides itself on feeding their customers quickly and cheaply.  Shhhh…… it is our secret trattoria!


On Saturday, we were back on our bikes, cycling another circular route from San Donato to Radda in Chianti, Castellina in Chianti and back to San Donato.  The route offered a mix of everything, flat roads, gradual climbs, lumpy bits, scenic countryside and 2 towns where we stopped for coffee.  It was a nice ride.



Giro di Lago Varano



Monday, 23 September 2013

The Gargano peninsula is in northeast Puglia.  It is about 3 hours’ drive from where we live.  We have always wanted to visit the area which is both scenic and the site of ancient pilgrimage routes.

On our way up to Tuscany for a week of cycling and the UCI World Championships in Florence, we decided to stop at Rodi Garganico, an old port.  During the summer, the Gargano is very popular with tourists, the main towns being Peschicci and Vieste.  Late September is a good time to visit.  The weather was superb, not too hot and the tourists had by and large left; it is a very short holiday season.
Peschicci

We cycled around Lake Varano, to the west of Rodi Garganico.  It is a saltwater lake and a sanctuary to many wetland birds.  Leaving Foce di Varano, we found ourselves on the Isole di Varano, a thin strip of land of about 15km long.  On one side is the Adriatic sea, the other the lake.  There were quite a number of campsites along the way, but these are discreetly hidden behind the native eucalyptus and pine forests and empty this time of the year.

Turning inland, we passed the peninsula of San Nicola di Varano (a peninsula within a peninsula!).  There were abandoned remains of an 11th century Benedictine monastery and an old military base from which seaplanes took off during WWI in defending the Dalmatian coast.

San Nicola di Varano
From San Nicola, the ride climbed up to Cagnano Varano with beautiful views of the sea, lake and countryside.  We rolled in Rodi Garganico in time for some pasta and a glass of wine.  Certainly one of our favourite rides.


Views of Lake Varano