To Paris the Green Way: Boisement to the Eiffel Tower

Sunday 6 April

Despite the rain forecast, the sun came out.  The road to Triel-sur-Seine was quiet with groups of lycra-clad cyclists out in force for their Sunday morning ride.  The route took us along the Seine into the Forêt of St Germain, Forêt of Marly le Roi, along Versailles, into the evocatively-named Forêt de Fausses Reposes, Parc de St Cloud, crossing the Seine on an acqueduct into the Bois de Boulogne - miles of cycle routes through forests and parks.  We rode half the circuit around the hippodrome, passing race goers to Longchamp.  It was the first day of the racing season 'Les Dimanches au Galop'.  Further on, we ran into the Paris Marathon in full swing.  Picking our way gingerly across the body of runners, we made it across the Boulevard Périphérique into central Paris.  The road closures for the marathon gave us a quiet run down towards the 'quai', where we crossed the Pont d'Iéna to meet the Tour d'Eiffel.  We celebrated with a photo before cycling home along the 'berges'.

Distance: 66km

A Brazilian band cheers on runners at the Paris Marathon

Hurrah!

To Paris the Green Way: Neufchâtel to Boisemont

Saturday 5 April

Planned to break the back of the 129-mile journey between Dieppe and Paris today.  It was a clear sunny morning - a little chilly for the fingers at the start.  We sailed through Forges les Eaux, Gournay en Bray, St Germer-de-Fly to arrive at Marines by mid-afternoon.  The roads were low traffic, passing through extensive farmland and quiet villages.  At Marines, we had to make up our minds whether to stop or try and ride on a bit more.  We were tired but after a brief rest in the town square and picking up some food for the next day (Sunday), we continued on our way, destination Boisement, more than 20km from Marines.  We checked into La Ferme Rose, the charming 15th century farmhouse of Claire and Yvon Chapon who run chambre d'hôtes and gîtes and enjoyed a convivial dinner with them and their guests.

Distance: 118km

The abbey St Germer-de-Fly 

Agricultural landscape

Rest stop in Marines

To Paris the Green Way: Newhaven to Neufchâtel en Bray

Friday 4 April

The ferry to Dieppe did not depart until noon, allowing us the morning for a leisurely breakfast and some food shopping.  The ferry terminal was 5 minutes from the hotel.  The 4-hour crossing was calm, the sea pancake-flat.  

In Dieppe, we followed Donald Hirsch's directions and found the Avenue Verte easily.  We cruised along a disused rail track which has been covered in Tarmac  and made very good progress of the 39km to Neufchâtel en Bray, where we stopped for the night.

Distance: 40km

Sur l'Avenue Verte

To Paris the Green Way: London to Newhaven

Thursday 3 April 2014

Cycling from London to Paris has been on the cards for a while.  We deferred the ride last autumn due to wet weather.  

On Thursday morning, 3 days after our return to Europe, we set off for Newhaven.  The plan was to follow the route set out in the Sustrans guide to the Avenue Verte.  It took us on the Clapham Common, Wandsworth Common before joining the Wandle Trail.  This was fine for a while, but as the Trail meandered through parks and was not well-signposted, it became slow-going and frustrating.  By 1pm, after nearly 4 hours, we stopped for lunch at Old Coulsdon, still within the M25.  The lack of progress prompted us to buy a map in Redhill and abandon the route proposed by Sustrans which, while designed to be low traffic or traffic-free, was convoluted and added miles to the journey.  We plotted a more direct route via East Grinstead and Lewes to our destination.  Although part of the A22 was busy, we enjoyed cycling the A275 to Lewes.  For the first time, we were in the countryside and the road was in good condition.

We arrived at the Premier Inn Newhaven around 6.30pm, exhausted and relieved to have made it before dark.  Had an Indian curry dinner before retiring to an early night.

Distance: 110km

Tassie Loop: Looking Back

26 Feb 2014
Now a few days after completing the ride.  We are sitting in a small wooden cabin (with tin roof), a log fire and a glass or two of Tassie sparkling.
Tasmania is an amazing island.  Hills (lots of them), coastline, parks, animals and birds.  It has been a great trip.  About 1050km of cycling but god knows how many metres climbed or free wheeled downhill afterwards.  It was a workout but without doubt, worthwhile.
So many highlights to mention but arriving in Hobart ahead of schedule and just before David's 70th was special.  Friends, Peter and Sue, had flown over from Adelaide and we joined up (by sheer coincidence) with Dianne and Julia for the birthday bash at the Me Wah Restaurant in Hobart.
Now we have unwound by hiring a car and visiting the area south of Hobart: Bruny Island (with its albino wallabies), Huon Valley, the amazing forests at Tahune and Port Arthur where it all started with the thousands of convicts sent from the UK to open up and start a new country.
It's been great cycling and keeping this journal and thanks for reading.
David and Irene

Banquet with friends at the Me Wah

White wallaby -  Bruny Island

Florita Riesling and Bruny Island oysters

Tessellated pavement at Eaglehawk Neck

Closing the Tassie Loop: Hamilton to Cambridge (Full Circle)

20 Feb 2014
Apart from 3 stiff climbs, it was mostly flat or downhill.  We galloped along to Hobart.  There, we crossed the Tasman Bridge - done once, never again.  The wind was huge and the bike lane was narrow,  but we could not fall into the sea or the motorway.  Eventually, we arrived at our start point, the Travelodge in Cambridge.
Distance: 90km

Black swans

Morris Commercial 'ute'

Barn

Never again!

Tassie Loop: Lake St Clair to Hamilton

19 Feb 2014
Woke early with a possum sniffing around the tent.  It started to rain, but managed to get away without getting too wet.  On the way back to the main road, we said hello to a few wallabies who stood in bewilderment of two idiots riding in the rain.  Found a little cafe and had a full English - it was so big that we packed half for later in the morning.  Really got going with flattish roads until we reached the turnoff for Laughing Jack Lagoon. A shortcut, but really rough gravel track and having to jump into ditches once we heard the big logging trucks.  Although it saved distance, it was a real workout for the bikes and us.
We then hit the main road and a very fast undulating ride to Wayatinah, an old hydroelectric village, but since we felt OK, we decided to push on to Ouse.  It was a tough section, despite long stretches of descent.  Was nearly knocked off the bike by a young girl driving badly.  Unfortunately for her, she had stopped at the cafe in Ouse, so I confronted her politely and explained the rules of the road.
We met up with a father and son from the Czech Republic.  They said they were pushing onto Hamilton, so we thought 'Why not?'  The road was fast and downhill.  Found the campsite alongside the river and went to the local hotel for a great pizza 'Mafiosi'.  Met up again with out Czech friends, George and Henry.  They had hoped to cycle 100km per day but Tasmania beat them. They told us how cycling had bonded father and son and was a great outlet after work.  Having sold their IT company, they had more time.  It was a pleasant evening with two lovely people.
Distance: 98km

This early Bennett's wallaby was happy to pose for a photo

The Laughing Jack Lagoon shortcut

Hamilton

Tassie Loop: Lake Burbury to Lake St Clair

18 Feb 2014
We feared this day.  First, Victoria's Pass and then a monster climb that took nearly 2 hours.  Throughout our route, we were cycling along the upper limit of the Franklin Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.  After that, we coasted down to Lake St Clair.   Lovely lake but pretty disorganised campsite, the worst so far.  Luckily there is a very helpful receptionist.  Restaurant was full so we went to the local Derwent Bridge hotel.  We ate smoked trout with veggies and a decent bottle of Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills.
Distance: 71km

The long undulating road

Echidna

Lake St Clair

Tassie Loop: Rosebery to Lake Burbery via Queenstown

17 Feb 2014
This was a tough day -  back to rolling hills.  Queenstown, an area of devastation after copper mining, has removed all trees .  Had a delicious pizza capricciosa made by a young Italian lady from Turin.  Stocked up on food at the supermarket as there will be no supplies for the next 170km.  Rested at the park under the pavilion erected by the Lions Club.
A twisty climb out of town to Gormanston but gradient was manageable, then downhill to lake campsite.  A huge oval with just 2 camper vans. Cooked up our sausages with raisin bread and avocado spread (ugh!) and to bed.
Distance: 77km

Rest after climbing out of Queenstown

Views of Lake Burbury

Tassie Loop: Cradle Mountain to Rosebery

16 Feb 2014
Awoke to changeable weather, but it did not rain.
A typical up and down day, through wild country.  A long hill climb up to 930m (highest to-date).  Lots of road works on the A10.  Fortunately, being Sunday, it was quiet on the roads.  At Tullah, we went to an old-fashioned tavern - all in one- sports bar, cafe, easy chairs, fruit machines in one huge barn.  Then a 5-km climb up Mt Black and descent into Rosebery which is a mining town looking for gold, zinc, copper, whatever!  Good supermarket, friendly well-organised campsite with spongy grass.
Distance: 68km

Camping in Rosebery

Tassie Loop: Cethana to Cradle Mountain

15 Feb 2014
We waited until Dale opened the cafe and had a decent breakfast.  We knew we were in for a tough (very tough) early ride.  The hill to Moina did not disappoint, but it was Saturday, so thankfully no trucks, just bloody motorcyclists.  They came in waves at crazy speed.
We met up with an American who was on a mad project to cycle around Tasmania in 90 hours, all 1200 km.  His group of 18 did not carry any kit and were supported by a backup van.  The fellow we spoke to had not stopped in 24 hours.  Good luck mate!
We made Cradle Mountain camp - pitched tent and took the shuttle bus up to Dove Lake.  It was stunning.
We had a little friend join us at the tent - a little Pademelon.  Looking for food but we could not feed him as it will affect his gums and lead to 'Lumpy Jaw' disease.
Huge camp kitchen, full of Chinese, Eastern Europeans, Germans and the odd Aussie.  We had buttered chicken curry - using the microwave since we don't carry all the pots and pans of the caravaners.
Peter Barry texted to say that he is coming to Tas and we will meet up somewhere around the 22nd.
Distance: 34km

Emu in a farm en route to Cradle Mountain

Dove Lake

David amidst the button grass

Pademelon

Wombat

Tassie Loop: Mole Creek to Cethana

14 Feb 2014
We had been given local knowledge about a shortcut near Liena.  It was shorter but hell.  Gravel and impossible to ride hills.  We checked out the route with the local farmer.  He was from Yorkshire and had 5 years ago purchased a 300-ha farm for raising cattle for beef.  Having sold his business, he thought the farm would supplement his pension but the reverse seemed to be the case.  Prime beef fetches A$2.50 per kg.  Also, in Tasmania growth hormones and supplements are prohibited.  So it takes 2 months longer to raise the cow compared with mainland Australia.
We arrived exhausted at Cethana but met Dale who was having his day off from the Round Hill Cafe. He said that it would be OK if we camped in his backyard which we did and sat out the rain.
Distance: 35km

Hut

Rough track shortcut

Spring where we refilled water bottles 

Tassie Loop: Launceston to Mole Creek

13 Feb 2014
We left early and it took about 40 minutes to climb out of the Launceston basin.  Then the road was just fine.  We had planned to stop at Deloraine but felt good so continued to Mole Creek.  Here we camped and had drinks with the camp owner and her friend, Joy who, well into her 70's still camps and travels in her little red car and comfortable tent.  The owner looked after the site only in summer and had a second job in the health industry.
Supper was at the local pub where we joined 2 couples from Melbourne and Queensland.  Large steaks, beer and banter.  I explained that POHM was the abbreviation of Prisoner of His Majesty- so they were referring to themselves and not us.  They were shocked and dismayed at the revelation.  One up to us!
Distance: 80km

Scarecrows of Chudleigh

Tassie Loop: Launceston

12 Feb 2014
Collected the bikes with a clean up, new rear sprockets and chain.  We also fixed a flag pole to Irene's bike and new handgrips and mirror to David's.
Had lunch at the lovely Stillwater Cafe on the river - in fact, it was a brunch with a glass of wine.  We wandered around the town and in the evening had a 'bud bud'.  Met the young lady who had waited on us in Freycinet.  She was surprised at the coincidence and the fact that Irene recognised her.
The accommodation at Elphin Villas was practical, clean and had all the facilities we needed.  So our bikes are packed with clean clothes and food for the next day.
Launceston is a quiet town with many Victorian buildings, giving a Tassie touch.  It was worth the visit.

Views of Cataract Gorge and the river

Tassie Loop: Scottsdale to Launceston

11 Feb 2014
Started at 7am with a meat pie and mug of tea in the town.  We decided to ride the A3 Tasman Highway which was a good choice.  Apart from the 8km climb up to the Sideling Lookout (elevation 594m), the ride was fast.  Met another £10 Pom at the top of the hill.  He was from Tooting and used to drive the 49 bus in London until he left in the 70's.  He was happy with his life as Australian.
Arrived in Launceston by 1pm.  We booked a hotel, so hot shower, clean up and crisp white sheets.  We dropped the bikes off for a service, but looks like a change of chains and rear sprocket set.
Distance: 63km

View from Sideling Lookout

Tassie Loop: Weldborough to Scottsdale

10 Feb 2014
Another lumpy ride in good weather and for the first time, we met some heavy truck traffic.  The Tassies used huge Mack trucks from the US.  When we hear them, we pull over since they create a nasty cross wind.
Scottsdale campsite was at the bottom of a huge hill and the trucks passed all night.  The campsite was free and became very full.  We met cyclists from Germany and Belgium.
We spoke with Steve who was the first of the £10 Poms who flew to Australia.  He claimed that a Chinese man in Singapore offered to buy him and his 11-year old twin brother - his father pondered but did not sell!  Word had it that the Chinese man was very rich and Steve did wonder what his life might have been like.  Still he was very content with his life in Australia. He was a retired travel coach driver (only 60) and showed us some amazing photos of his travels.  He and his wife travel continuously and he caddies for his wife, a keen golfer.  He suggested that we have a flag for the rear of the bike to help buses and trucks see us and gave us an Aussie flag.
Distance: 52km

Northeast Park, Scottsdale

Yellow-tailed black cockatoo

Tassie Loop: Scamander to Weldborough

9 Feb 2014
Lovely ride to St Helens along the coast before turning inland and the hills.  The big climb was sheer hell - very hot and windy.  We climbed over 600m in 15 km.  just as we were near the top, 2 cyclists were coming down at speed.  We spotted Richie Porte and cheered him on and Team Sky.  Richie is from Launceston and had recently completed the Tour Down Under winning the famous Willunga Hill stage and placing 4th overall.  He is now preparing for the Giro d'Italia where he will be team leader for Sky.
We made our way through strong gusts of crosswinds (reportedly up to 100km/h) to the historic Weldborough Pub and set up our tent under a holly tree.
The campsite was emptying since there had been over 400 mountain bike riders there for the annual Blue Dragon Mountain Bike Challenge.  The village (of about 3 houses) was the centre, together with nearby Derby for tin-mining and during its peak, over 1000 Chinese workers were employed.
"You're foreigners, from Australia?", we were asked by one of the regulars at the bar.  He was very friendly and gave us local information
Distance: 68km

Weldborough Pass Rainforest

Camping under the holly tree

Tassie Loop: Coles Bay to Scamander

8 Feb 2014
A long hot ride and by now, the usual rolling hills.  It was very scenic as the Tasman Highway followed the coast.  Stopped with a view to camp at Little Beach, but when we realised our co-campers were a stag party for a wild bunch of lads, we decided to push on to Scamander, a nondescript seaside town  We were the only campers at the park except for a couple who have been on the road with their caravan for 12 years and had no intention of stopping.
We had a Thai meal which was as close to Thai cuisine as we were from Bangkok.
Distance: 97km

Bliss!

Letterbox in Scamander

Tassie Loop: Freycinet National Park

7 Feb 2014
Rode down to Richardsons Beach after getting our 2-month Tasmania National Parks passes.  Our camping spot for tonight was within the Freycinet reserve just metres from the beach.  It was a sunny day.  Decided to climb Mt Amos, part of the range of granite mountains, known as the Hazards, which dominate Coles Bay.  It was a tough climb, but offered spectacular views over Wineglass Bay. The mountain has smooth faces of granite which becomes perilously slippery when wet so fine conditions are essential for a safe descent. As we were descending, the rain came, making it treacherous.  Nearly wore out shorts sliding about.  Our shoes were not suitable for the wet descent.  A lesson learnt- climb was 454m.
Treated ourselves to a very good meal and a decent Riesling from Clare.