The Ramen Run in Kyushu: The End

To review our trip :

The bikes worked well and lightweight touring is easier.  No tents to erect and take down nor our heavy duty bikes to lug around.  

Credit card touring is of course more expensive but that hot bath or hot shower is worth the cost.

The Japanese are massive cyclists but mainly to and from work or school.  It's organised with secure bike parking at stations, offices, etc.  We left our bikes outside buildings.  In the UK or Italy, they would have gone in seconds.  Not so in Japan.  Cyclists can ride with care on pavements and most main roads have segregated bike lanes.

The island of Kyushu has an amazing coastline.  All the small ports were busy with fishing, seaweed collection and market gardening.  Very few young people around.  They must have left for the cities.  The old folk seem to work forever; ladies bent double from their work.  The next generation will have found machines and robots to work the fields.  

Southern Kyushu has an early spring.  We were not too cold with the right cycling gear.

It would have been better with a tougher puncture proof set of tyres.  We may consider moving up to 700 x 28C

There is no need to carry much clothing as there are laundry facilities in most hotels or nearby.  Fast and cheap.

Prices of hotels were not cheap but of a high standard.

Food was excellent, fresh and well-presented.

The Japanese are great hosts - polite and considerate.  We fell into their way of lowering our voice, bowing to everyone and smiling.

Japan works.  Discipline and dedication are the key qualities of their society.

All in all, it has been a great trip.  Thank you, Kyushu!

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: In Search of Kabuki

28 February 2017 (44 km)

Cycling is additive.  We decided we still needed to cycle some more!!  Irene researched the town of Yamaga at the end of a 34-km cycle track from Kumamoto (the Yuka Family Road).  Yamaga is famous for its kabuki theatre (the first to be built in Kyushu in 1910) which has undergone extensive renovation.  

It was our last day and since we had to set aside time to pack up the bikes, we decided to take the train to Ueki station.  There we found the path, a disused rail trail with a good tarmac surface.  The ride was fine, winding though bamboo groves, rice fields and garden allotments.  Unburdened by baggage, the bikes just flew.

Arriving at Yamaga, we found the Yachiyoza theatre and were in time for a guided visit as well as a short performance of traditional Japanese dance.  The theatre is magnificent and adorned with decorative advertisements from sponsors of that period.  Many famous Kabuki actors, including the present day celebrated onnagata Bandō Tamasaburō V have performed there.

That evening, we re-visited the local restaurant, Utanoki, from last night.  Found our favourite 9-year-old Amakusa shochu and had the best squid ink spaghetti ever.  The chef came out from the kitchen to accept our thanks.

 The Yachiyoza theatre was built by local residents in 1910

Odori, a form of Japanese traditional dance from the Kabuki, was created in the Edo period

The Yuka Cycling Road connecting Kumamoto and Yamaga is about 34km long.
This was previously the rail  track for the Yamaga Onsen train.

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Day out in the Shimabara Peninsula

27 February 2017

We hired a car to explore the hilly Shimabara peninsula.  The fast ferry crossing took 30 minutes.  

First, we drove through Shimabara city centre and its castle.  Visited the well-preserved samurai street.  Three of the bukeyashiki (samurai houses) are open to the public, and the rest are inhabited.  Between the houses ran a pretty gravel road with a stream down the middle.

The drive in the Unzen-Amakusa National Park took us through woods amidst volcanic landscape.  A whiff of sulphur emanating from mineral hot spring fields greeted our arrival in the village of Unzen.  We visited the bubbling jigoku ('Hell') where hot water and gases spout out of the earth.  During the Edo period when Christians were persecuted, these hells were used to execute Christian rebels after the failed Shimbara rebellion.

After a quick foot-bath and and some delicious speciality local biscuits, we headed back to Kumamoto.

It was a pleasant break in glorious weather.

Feeding the gulls on the ferry 

Shimabara Samurai Street

Unzen Hell

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Back to Kumamoto via Misumi

26 February 2017 (50 km) 

Today was to be the last day of cycling. Target was to cross the islands and get to Misumi for the train into Kumamoto.  The first part along the coast was quick, but the traffic was building.  Then the exit to the toll road and we lost them all. The cars rejoined later and we kept off the road as much as possible.

We popped into the small coffee house and met the couple who were so kind on our first day.  Good coffee and a slice of cheesecake helped us fly across the last bridge.

The station manager did not seem too fussed about the bikes which we had just dropped our bags across without removing the wheels.  We sat next to the driver and a little girl (probably 5/6 on her own taking the train). 

Checked back into our hotel and they had already put our left luggage in our room.  Now thinking how we shall fill the next two days.

Similar huts are scattered around the islands.  They dispense rice.

Lovely couple from coffee shop on Oyano Island.  They roast their own coffee.

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Izumi to Hondo

25 February 2017 (62 km)

It was a day of island-hopping.  The first section to Kuranoseto Bridge was very busy.  After that, it went smoothly, less hilly than expected.

We arrived at the ferry point well in advance and had hoped that there would be a place for some lunch or a snack. "Nushing", said the chap selling tickets, so we had to content ourselves with the vending machine.  One thing about Japan is that you are never too far from a Lawson, Family Mart, or 7-11.  All of them are spotlessly clean with a good selection of bits and pieces.  They also have bathrooms.  When these are not around, there is always a drinks vending machine with a vast selection of hot and cold canned drinks.

 Ferry ride was short but a delightful crossing of the Indigo bay which has fish farming and more than 120 islands.  The villages are small and cling to the coastline, a very isolated existence.

The ride to Hondo was short and fast.  We made use of the onsen and went out in search of early dinner (we had no lunch).  Found a young sushi chef and his mother who opened up for us - first class nigiri sushi made on the spot  by him and served on the lacquer counter.  Perfection!

This is our last night on the cycling part of the tour. Tomorrow we retrace our tracks to Misumi for catch the train back to Kumamoto.

Satsumas are everywhere 

Shimenawa are lengths of rice straw or hemp rope, frequently encountered strung across torii, Shinto gateways and are used to demarcate the boundary between the sacred and the profane.

The islanders of Nagashima have developed a unique art of making giant statues out of straw, cans or styrofoam.

Fish farming and drying of seaweed

Fisherman's trousers, Japanese style, worn with split toe shoes

Interesting juxtaposition and colours in the ferry

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Kagoshima to Izumi

25 February 2017

We had few hours to spare and decided to potter around, pavement cycling the waterfront in order to view the volcano which we were able to do with our feet in a public hot spring foot-bath.  Then a visit to the small  but very impressive modern art collection at the city museum.  There were works from Matisse, Picasso, Dufy, Derain, Warhol, Kandinsky and other 20th-century European artists.  There was even old Mrs Bonnard in the bath once again.

Following a light lunch, we made our way to the station.  This was a bit of a trial and stress as to how to load and unload the bikes onto the Shinkansen within the very brief time it was in the station.  We were lucky the train wasn't too full, with no Americans or Chinese with their massive suitcases. Talking of foreigners, we have only seen one non-Asian in our whole trip and that was for a brief second, he was getting into a car.  

We arrived in Izumi and found our hotel within just a few metres of the station. With the train running at over 300km/h, it took less than half an hour, a journey which would have taken us a day on bicycle.

Mt Sakurajima

Having a foot bath while admiring Mt Sakurajima 

Japanese purity

A rare portrait of Mrs Matisse in Villa Le Rêve

Bicycle safely stowed away in the Shinkansen

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Birthday in Kagoshima

23 February 2017

It was David's birthday and an overcast day. So we decided to take it easy.

We went early to the Fish Market which is second to the one in Tokyo.  Massive tunas and loads of busy men with massive sharp knives.  We took an early breakfast there of sashimi and rice.  It was full of workers coming off shift.

We then took the ferry to the volcanic island of Sakurajima in Kinko Bay.  Cloudy, so no real view of this active volcano.  Maybe better luck tomorrow. 

The rest of the day, we walked around the town and had an early supper.  The speciality, in fact it only sold, unagi - eel which is sweetened and grilled on an open charcoal grill.  Washed down with an excellent sake.  The day was complete!

Now to pack up the gear and prepare for the shinkansen train journey tomorrow.  Bikes must be packed up in a bag.

Birthday breakfast

Tuna and Tako at the Fish Market

Roadsides honesty box on Satsumajima.
The Satsumajima mikan is the smallest mandarin orange. We bought a bag and they were  very sweet.

Unagi for supper

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Ibusuki to Kagoshima

22 February 2017 (53km) 

On paper, it appeared to be a straight run on Route 226 into Kagoshima.  For the first half, the road was single lane, busy with an erratic shoulder.  The Japanese drivers were courteous in overtaking us.

On the outskirts of Kagoshima, route 217 offered us a good alternative, first a lane specifically for two-wheeled traffic, then a reasonable shared pavement.  The urban sprawl seemed to go on forever.  Just a kilometre short of our hotel, David had another puncture.  Fortunately we had just passed a tyre repair shop.  It was fascinating to watch how it is done the Japanese way.

Shortly afterwards, David noticed that his tyre had a split.  We visited the local police station and they were very helpful in pointing out a larger bicycle shop.

We found our hotel, left our bags and went to look for the shop where David had his tyre replaced.  We then went to the train station to get tickets for Friday and a late lunch of ramen at Zabon.  Kagoshima ramen is renowned for its rich pork broth and savoury taste.

Chores done, we returned to the hotel to check-in and do some laundry.  In the evening, we explored the neighborhood, the Tenmonken, which is the main shopping area in Kagoshima.  Had another tasty kurobuta ramen for dinner at a café run by father and son.  The kurobuta is pork from the black Berkshire pig and is bred for its marbling and sweet flavour.  It originated 300 years ago from England.  The pigs in the Kagoshima prefecture are fed on sweet potatoes.

Kagoshima is the largest city in southern Kyushu. It is an important port for liner and fuel traffic. It sits to the side of Sakurajima, a massive active volcano dominating the bay.  Some people liken the city to Napoli - for its individual spirit and sitting in the eshadow of a huge volcano. 

Kagoshima kurobuta ramen

Bike parking at the train station costs ¥100 per day

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: circular ride around Ibusuki

21 February 2017 (44 km)

Watched the TV this morning and saw the effects of the extreme wind yesterday.  

We were called for our breakfast which was an enormous spread of Japanese bits and pieces in our own private kiosk.  The food was kept warm by ducting the steam from the mountain and heating the water in the worktop holding some of our food.

We then decided to climb the steep but shorter route to Lake Ikeda.  It was a tough ride with a 4km climb through pine forests, averaging about 8%.  Then came the fast descent to the huge lake.  Lake Ikeda, a caldera lake, is the largest lake in Kyushu with a depth of 233m.  Large eels which grow to a length of 2m live in the lake.     Just before getting to the lake, we saw a group of young Japanese riders racing up the hill.  We found out a few minutes later that they were the Shimano Pro Racing team as we stopped at their van and asked if we could borrow a pump.  The manager of the team was very friendly and helped us.  He had ridden as a pro in Italy and had completed the Giro d'Italia a few times.  He said that his team was training in the area that day and would cycle for 200km.

We then visited a rather strange restaurant, Tosenkyo Flowing Noodle where the noodles or somen-nagashi are tipped into a swirling bowl of water and you have to catch them with your chopsticks.  The fresh spring water used to prepare the noodles gives it a light and refreshing taste.

We finished off the ride, cycling to the side of Mt Kaimon (known by locals as "Satsumafuji") which looked spectacular on a clear day.  We returned to the hotel for another hot bath and then got ourselves buried in sand for 10 minutes.  It was very hot but soothing.  We were wrapped in yukatas and sand was shovelled up to our chins.

That evening, we returned to the last night's izakaya to taste some more barbecue pork, washed down with a local shochu.  All in all, it was a very pleasant day.

David was aghast at the amount of food at breakfast.  This was not a buffet.

A lovely climb through the forest. "Yama" (mountain), the lady in kimono from the hotel warned us, crossing her wrists to show no-go

Mt Kaimon or the Fuji of Satsuma 

With the manager of Team Shimano

Natural sand bath

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Makurazaki to Ibusuki

20 February 2017 (42 km)

Today the weather changed.  The forecast said rain but did not mention that it would be horizontal with 50mph gusts.  At one point we had to get off the bikes and hold onto the railing at the side of the road.  We passed through a massive area of market gardening and rode in the direction of the extinct volcano Mt Kaimon which looks like a smaller version of Mt Fuji - perfect symmetry!  We stopped at 7-11 to avoid the rain and then again at Joyfull where we had a ramen.  We arrived at the hotel ahead of schedule but they allowed us to change into dry clothes and wait in the lobby until check-in.

Next, a visit to the onsen, which was the family version, i.e. just two of us, but it included a small hamman which was welcomed after being soaked through.  We have decided to stay here an extra night and plan to cycle up a steep mountain tomorrow with an eel lake on top.  Then we plan to get ourselves buried in the volcanic sand bath.

Green tea plantation - no Tamil ladies picking here, just machines!

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Ichikikushikino to Makurazaki

19 February 2017 (60 km)

We left on a sunny but cold morning which soon warmed up.  The ride was pretty straightforward.  We soon saw hoards of people waving paper flags and wondered why they were giving us such a reception.  But we learned that it was an elite marathon of probably no more than 20 guys.  I though they looked around the 2.30 mark or maybe even faster.  

We stopped at the state-of-the-art Tsunuki whiskey distillery.  They had preserved the old towers which must have been 30-40m high.  Now they have installed some pretty impressive equipment and when you see the price of the whiskey, you understand the level of investment.  They won the 2013 gold medal in London for the top whiskey and this was retailing in their store at 95,000¥ (about £830).  They also produced a table wine from their vineyards near Mt Fuji known as Château de Mars.

There was no information on the internet about hotels in Makurazaki, our destination.  But we knew from a TV program we recently saw, that there was one by the station.  We were unable to check into our room as the Japanese hotels are very strict about their rule of being in at 3pm and out by 10 am, so we went for lunch and David tried straw-smoked bonito.

Makurazaki is an industrial port located at the southernmost edge of Satsuma, Kagoshima. It is famous for katsuo (bonito flakes). 

There was no onsen, but we did enjoy a very hot bath and for the first time, a Western style room.  For supper, we went to a tiny mom-and-pop shop, Daitoku where Irene was able to experience freshly-shaved bonito flakes on steamed rice in her katsuo funado meshi.

The marathon at Fukiagehama: the neighbourhood was out cheering and waving flags.

Visit of the Tsunuki Distillery

Early cherry blossoms 

Katsuo funado meshi, a donburi with fresh bonito, bonito flakes, green
onion, nori strips and rice crisps in katsuo broth.

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Yasuragi Spa to Ichikikushikino

18 February 2017 (90 km)

It was an early start; the hotel arranged a light breakfast (!) and we set off for the port.  It was just getting light but we wanted to make sure we caught the 8am ferry to Nagashima Island.  Like everything in Japan, the ferry left exactly at 8am, no fuss, no bother and of course, it was immaculately clean.  We had coffee on board and the crossing took half an hour.

We entered a tiny bay.  The cars and we were discharged and a little bit to our surprise, we were confronted by a very steep climb up to the headland.  This was the pattern of the day, fast stretches and rolling hills.  The folk of Nagashima are amazing gardeners.  Every inch of the road was planted with flowers and decorative vegetables.  The daffodils and crocuses were out.  There were plastic ground covers with vegetables everywhere.  Lots of potato growing which may be for the local brew, shochu.

Crossing the bridge onto the mainland of Kyushu, which is itself an island, we found a small road meandering through the villages before joining Road #3 which was scenic but very busy.  We made good speed.  At Akune, we were able to find an adapter to convert from presta to schrader.  The kind lady wanted to give it to us but we insisted on paying.

We made another diversion past a massive atomic power station.  It was scenic but very hilly.  We stopped at the top of a hill and a local farmer came to talk to us.  He laughed and told us about the hills to follow.  He was right, but by then, we were committed.  We eventually descended to the coast and it was very gusty, but beautifully scenic.

We did not wait long at the hotel before we jumped into the onsen.  Bubbles at 45 degrees sooth the tired limbs.  Tonight, it is sake, beer, tempura and sashimi and self-service laundry.

The sun rises over Port Ushibuka.  It was a beautiful sunny day.

Flowers planted along the road

View of the terraces and bay, Nagashima island 

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Reihoku to Yasuragi-no Yu Spa

17 February 2017 (48 km)

After a very blustery and rainy night and having finished our delicious Japanese breakfast, we set off at 8 o'clock.  It was dry but a fierce wind was coming in off the sea.  We thought back to our cycling tour of the Western Isles and trying to cycling downhill against a headwind in Harris.  

We hugged the coastline and then a few short climbs into the hill followed by a series of 14 tunnels.  We had a puncture on the way which we think was the result of the gritty bike tracks which run alongside the road.  The coast was scenic and rocky with small fishing villages, but quite deserted.  We're sure it is probably quite different in the summer.  After another ramen lunch in a workers' cafe, we arrived at our spa hotel. 

Settled into our room and headed straight for the onsen.  45 minutes was enough in the heat of the water.  The rest of the day we spent looking for accommodation on the mainland.  They all seemed to be full for the weekend.  We eventually found one more than 80km away, not counting a ferry crossing.  It will be an early start tomorrow.

One of the 14 tunnels, a rather Art Deco Takahama Tunnel

Oe Catholic Church and below, the village of Sakitsu and its Catholic Church

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Singapore to Reihoku

15-16 January 2017 (81 km)

Left Singapore with bikes packed in their Body Bags.  Arrived safely in Kumamoto, except for David's saddle which was badly scratched.  Checked into the New Otani which was adjacent to the JR station.  Had a light meal and a good sake in the rather large town - one shopping arcade was 1km long.  Repackaged the bikes into their lightweight livery to conform with JR trains.

This morning, took the local train from Kumamoto to Misumi.  It is advisable to try and get the front carriage as there is space to put the bikes.  Sat immediately behind the driver and watch everything as the scenery changed.  There was frost on some fields but it was a glorious sunny day.  There were a few traditional houses with tarpaulin over the roofs, a reminder of the earthquake that struck the region less than a year ago.  We reassembled the bikes at Misumi station and set off to look for the Kyohara bike shop.  Our little pump does not get up to the 100 psi we need. We got a little lost and asked a dustman where the bike shop was.  We got there and thought it was closed, and along came the dustman who asked the shop to open up.  Unfortunately, the pumps they had were not suitable.  So we set off and climbed the hill to the first of five bridges to Amakusa.

At the bridge, a little mini truck arrived, honking.  It was our hero, the dustman, who had found a pump which fitted and we were able to pump up David's tyres.  He then gave us three oranges and a mini pump and wished us on our way.  How can you measure that kindness!

We continued onto Oyano island where we stopped for a coffee.  The owner and her husband are cyclists.  While we were having coffee and cakes, he took it upon himself to check our tyres and pumped them up to the right pressure.  She gave us homemade orange peel sweets which were delicious, just the energy two cyclists need.

We crossed over to Matsushima island and after a wrong turn or two, found ourselves on the coastal road heading towards Hondo.  We had a bowl of ramen at a mom-and-pop shop.  Eventually, we arrived at Minshuku Tairyoumaru in Reihoku.  We cleaned up and had a soak in the hot-tub.  The owner Rika, took us to a restaurant for an izakaya meal - fresh, fresh sashimi, rice with little fish washed down with local rice shochu on ice.  She picked us up from the restaurant after our meal and organised our accommodation for tomorrow.  No wonder, she is #1 on Tripadvisor for Amakusa.

Tonight we sleep on a futon in a huge 20-tatami traditional room.  After 80km, we will have a good night's sleep!

View from the driver's cabin

A very kind man who went out of his way to help us

Sashimi at the local izakaya