The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Ibusuki to Kagoshima

22 February 2017 (53km) 

On paper, it appeared to be a straight run on Route 226 into Kagoshima.  For the first half, the road was single lane, busy with an erratic shoulder.  The Japanese drivers were courteous in overtaking us.

On the outskirts of Kagoshima, route 217 offered us a good alternative, first a lane specifically for two-wheeled traffic, then a reasonable shared pavement.  The urban sprawl seemed to go on forever.  Just a kilometre short of our hotel, David had another puncture.  Fortunately we had just passed a tyre repair shop.  It was fascinating to watch how it is done the Japanese way.

Shortly afterwards, David noticed that his tyre had a split.  We visited the local police station and they were very helpful in pointing out a larger bicycle shop.

We found our hotel, left our bags and went to look for the shop where David had his tyre replaced.  We then went to the train station to get tickets for Friday and a late lunch of ramen at Zabon.  Kagoshima ramen is renowned for its rich pork broth and savoury taste.

Chores done, we returned to the hotel to check-in and do some laundry.  In the evening, we explored the neighborhood, the Tenmonken, which is the main shopping area in Kagoshima.  Had another tasty kurobuta ramen for dinner at a café run by father and son.  The kurobuta is pork from the black Berkshire pig and is bred for its marbling and sweet flavour.  It originated 300 years ago from England.  The pigs in the Kagoshima prefecture are fed on sweet potatoes.

Kagoshima is the largest city in southern Kyushu. It is an important port for liner and fuel traffic. It sits to the side of Sakurajima, a massive active volcano dominating the bay.  Some people liken the city to Napoli - for its individual spirit and sitting in the eshadow of a huge volcano. 

Kagoshima kurobuta ramen

Bike parking at the train station costs ¥100 per day

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: circular ride around Ibusuki

21 February 2017 (44 km)

Watched the TV this morning and saw the effects of the extreme wind yesterday.  

We were called for our breakfast which was an enormous spread of Japanese bits and pieces in our own private kiosk.  The food was kept warm by ducting the steam from the mountain and heating the water in the worktop holding some of our food.

We then decided to climb the steep but shorter route to Lake Ikeda.  It was a tough ride with a 4km climb through pine forests, averaging about 8%.  Then came the fast descent to the huge lake.  Lake Ikeda, a caldera lake, is the largest lake in Kyushu with a depth of 233m.  Large eels which grow to a length of 2m live in the lake.     Just before getting to the lake, we saw a group of young Japanese riders racing up the hill.  We found out a few minutes later that they were the Shimano Pro Racing team as we stopped at their van and asked if we could borrow a pump.  The manager of the team was very friendly and helped us.  He had ridden as a pro in Italy and had completed the Giro d'Italia a few times.  He said that his team was training in the area that day and would cycle for 200km.

We then visited a rather strange restaurant, Tosenkyo Flowing Noodle where the noodles or somen-nagashi are tipped into a swirling bowl of water and you have to catch them with your chopsticks.  The fresh spring water used to prepare the noodles gives it a light and refreshing taste.

We finished off the ride, cycling to the side of Mt Kaimon (known by locals as "Satsumafuji") which looked spectacular on a clear day.  We returned to the hotel for another hot bath and then got ourselves buried in sand for 10 minutes.  It was very hot but soothing.  We were wrapped in yukatas and sand was shovelled up to our chins.

That evening, we returned to the last night's izakaya to taste some more barbecue pork, washed down with a local shochu.  All in all, it was a very pleasant day.

David was aghast at the amount of food at breakfast.  This was not a buffet.

A lovely climb through the forest. "Yama" (mountain), the lady in kimono from the hotel warned us, crossing her wrists to show no-go

Mt Kaimon or the Fuji of Satsuma 

With the manager of Team Shimano

Natural sand bath

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Makurazaki to Ibusuki

20 February 2017 (42 km)

Today the weather changed.  The forecast said rain but did not mention that it would be horizontal with 50mph gusts.  At one point we had to get off the bikes and hold onto the railing at the side of the road.  We passed through a massive area of market gardening and rode in the direction of the extinct volcano Mt Kaimon which looks like a smaller version of Mt Fuji - perfect symmetry!  We stopped at 7-11 to avoid the rain and then again at Joyfull where we had a ramen.  We arrived at the hotel ahead of schedule but they allowed us to change into dry clothes and wait in the lobby until check-in.

Next, a visit to the onsen, which was the family version, i.e. just two of us, but it included a small hamman which was welcomed after being soaked through.  We have decided to stay here an extra night and plan to cycle up a steep mountain tomorrow with an eel lake on top.  Then we plan to get ourselves buried in the volcanic sand bath.

Green tea plantation - no Tamil ladies picking here, just machines!

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Ichikikushikino to Makurazaki

19 February 2017 (60 km)

We left on a sunny but cold morning which soon warmed up.  The ride was pretty straightforward.  We soon saw hoards of people waving paper flags and wondered why they were giving us such a reception.  But we learned that it was an elite marathon of probably no more than 20 guys.  I though they looked around the 2.30 mark or maybe even faster.  

We stopped at the state-of-the-art Tsunuki whiskey distillery.  They had preserved the old towers which must have been 30-40m high.  Now they have installed some pretty impressive equipment and when you see the price of the whiskey, you understand the level of investment.  They won the 2013 gold medal in London for the top whiskey and this was retailing in their store at 95,000¥ (about £830).  They also produced a table wine from their vineyards near Mt Fuji known as Château de Mars.

There was no information on the internet about hotels in Makurazaki, our destination.  But we knew from a TV program we recently saw, that there was one by the station.  We were unable to check into our room as the Japanese hotels are very strict about their rule of being in at 3pm and out by 10 am, so we went for lunch and David tried straw-smoked bonito.

Makurazaki is an industrial port located at the southernmost edge of Satsuma, Kagoshima. It is famous for katsuo (bonito flakes). 

There was no onsen, but we did enjoy a very hot bath and for the first time, a Western style room.  For supper, we went to a tiny mom-and-pop shop, Daitoku where Irene was able to experience freshly-shaved bonito flakes on steamed rice in her katsuo funado meshi.

The marathon at Fukiagehama: the neighbourhood was out cheering and waving flags.

Visit of the Tsunuki Distillery

Early cherry blossoms 

Katsuo funado meshi, a donburi with fresh bonito, bonito flakes, green
onion, nori strips and rice crisps in katsuo broth.

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Yasuragi Spa to Ichikikushikino

18 February 2017 (90 km)

It was an early start; the hotel arranged a light breakfast (!) and we set off for the port.  It was just getting light but we wanted to make sure we caught the 8am ferry to Nagashima Island.  Like everything in Japan, the ferry left exactly at 8am, no fuss, no bother and of course, it was immaculately clean.  We had coffee on board and the crossing took half an hour.

We entered a tiny bay.  The cars and we were discharged and a little bit to our surprise, we were confronted by a very steep climb up to the headland.  This was the pattern of the day, fast stretches and rolling hills.  The folk of Nagashima are amazing gardeners.  Every inch of the road was planted with flowers and decorative vegetables.  The daffodils and crocuses were out.  There were plastic ground covers with vegetables everywhere.  Lots of potato growing which may be for the local brew, shochu.

Crossing the bridge onto the mainland of Kyushu, which is itself an island, we found a small road meandering through the villages before joining Road #3 which was scenic but very busy.  We made good speed.  At Akune, we were able to find an adapter to convert from presta to schrader.  The kind lady wanted to give it to us but we insisted on paying.

We made another diversion past a massive atomic power station.  It was scenic but very hilly.  We stopped at the top of a hill and a local farmer came to talk to us.  He laughed and told us about the hills to follow.  He was right, but by then, we were committed.  We eventually descended to the coast and it was very gusty, but beautifully scenic.

We did not wait long at the hotel before we jumped into the onsen.  Bubbles at 45 degrees sooth the tired limbs.  Tonight, it is sake, beer, tempura and sashimi and self-service laundry.

The sun rises over Port Ushibuka.  It was a beautiful sunny day.

Flowers planted along the road

View of the terraces and bay, Nagashima island 

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Reihoku to Yasuragi-no Yu Spa

17 February 2017 (48 km)

After a very blustery and rainy night and having finished our delicious Japanese breakfast, we set off at 8 o'clock.  It was dry but a fierce wind was coming in off the sea.  We thought back to our cycling tour of the Western Isles and trying to cycling downhill against a headwind in Harris.  

We hugged the coastline and then a few short climbs into the hill followed by a series of 14 tunnels.  We had a puncture on the way which we think was the result of the gritty bike tracks which run alongside the road.  The coast was scenic and rocky with small fishing villages, but quite deserted.  We're sure it is probably quite different in the summer.  After another ramen lunch in a workers' cafe, we arrived at our spa hotel. 

Settled into our room and headed straight for the onsen.  45 minutes was enough in the heat of the water.  The rest of the day we spent looking for accommodation on the mainland.  They all seemed to be full for the weekend.  We eventually found one more than 80km away, not counting a ferry crossing.  It will be an early start tomorrow.

One of the 14 tunnels, a rather Art Deco Takahama Tunnel

Oe Catholic Church and below, the village of Sakitsu and its Catholic Church

The Ramen Run in Kyushu: Singapore to Reihoku

15-16 January 2017 (81 km)

Left Singapore with bikes packed in their Body Bags.  Arrived safely in Kumamoto, except for David's saddle which was badly scratched.  Checked into the New Otani which was adjacent to the JR station.  Had a light meal and a good sake in the rather large town - one shopping arcade was 1km long.  Repackaged the bikes into their lightweight livery to conform with JR trains.

This morning, took the local train from Kumamoto to Misumi.  It is advisable to try and get the front carriage as there is space to put the bikes.  Sat immediately behind the driver and watch everything as the scenery changed.  There was frost on some fields but it was a glorious sunny day.  There were a few traditional houses with tarpaulin over the roofs, a reminder of the earthquake that struck the region less than a year ago.  We reassembled the bikes at Misumi station and set off to look for the Kyohara bike shop.  Our little pump does not get up to the 100 psi we need. We got a little lost and asked a dustman where the bike shop was.  We got there and thought it was closed, and along came the dustman who asked the shop to open up.  Unfortunately, the pumps they had were not suitable.  So we set off and climbed the hill to the first of five bridges to Amakusa.

At the bridge, a little mini truck arrived, honking.  It was our hero, the dustman, who had found a pump which fitted and we were able to pump up David's tyres.  He then gave us three oranges and a mini pump and wished us on our way.  How can you measure that kindness!

We continued onto Oyano island where we stopped for a coffee.  The owner and her husband are cyclists.  While we were having coffee and cakes, he took it upon himself to check our tyres and pumped them up to the right pressure.  She gave us homemade orange peel sweets which were delicious, just the energy two cyclists need.

We crossed over to Matsushima island and after a wrong turn or two, found ourselves on the coastal road heading towards Hondo.  We had a bowl of ramen at a mom-and-pop shop.  Eventually, we arrived at Minshuku Tairyoumaru in Reihoku.  We cleaned up and had a soak in the hot-tub.  The owner Rika, took us to a restaurant for an izakaya meal - fresh, fresh sashimi, rice with little fish washed down with local rice shochu on ice.  She picked us up from the restaurant after our meal and organised our accommodation for tomorrow.  No wonder, she is #1 on Tripadvisor for Amakusa.

Tonight we sleep on a futon in a huge 20-tatami traditional room.  After 80km, we will have a good night's sleep!

View from the driver's cabin

A very kind man who went out of his way to help us

Sashimi at the local izakaya