In Search of Fingal's Cave: Oban-Barra

Wednesday 26 June 2013

Oban-Barra

The ferry from Oban to Barra left in the early afternoon, leaving us the entire morning to explore Oban and fit the saddlebags to our bikes.  Had an enormous seafood platter at the fish shop on the waterfront – prawns, crab claws, mussels, langoustines, squid rings….

As we prepared to board the ferry, we met another cyclist, Neil, from Glasgow.  He was going to cycle all the way up from Barra to the Butt of Lewis.  Ferry crossing was uneventful and scenic, passing along the northern coast of the Isle of Mull.  Cycled 2½ miles to the campsite at Borve.  Donald, the friendly owner, allocated us a site right by the beach.  The campsite had very good facilities: clean toilets and showers, washing machine and dryer.  We fell asleep to the sound of waves.

Distance travelled: 4km

 Loaded bicycles

 Sunset at Borve Campsite

What is a Stoater?

Today we collected our long-awaited Stoater Plus bicycles from Shand Cycles in Livingston.  We had the chance to meet Steven Shand and Russell Stout who designed and built the bikes at their workshop. They are the only bike builders presently operating in Scotland and are making top quality bikes.  Our Stoaters are to be used as lightweight steel touring bikes with Rohloff hubs and Gates belt drive.  They were built to our dimensions, colour and specifications and we are very pleased with the results.  We would like to thank Steven and Russell for an excellent job and would strongly recommend them to anyone who wants a British-built bike.  (No frame from Taiwan, but hand built in the UK).

This afternoon we drove a very scenic route around the Trossachs to reach Oban, a delightful small harbour town, which is the port for ferries going to the islands of the Hebrides.  We spent time assembling racks and testing saddlebags and now look forward to the journey to Barra tomorrow, the start of our tour.

The Grey Stoater

Wee Blue Stoater

Le Tour de l'Indochine: Epilogue

This trip took 2 weeks and over 1000km cycled, we travelled in 3 different countries.  Vietnam was very interesting to see the rapid development of their economy, whereas Laos, even with a GDP growth of 8% p.a still seems its sleepy old self.

Unlike our earlier trip from Singapore to Phuket, this holiday was conceived to visit specific places - Hoi An, Hué, Savannakhet and Pakse.  Cycling considerations included keeping to quiet country roads, staying off Vietnam's busy Highway 1 as much as possible and challenges like the Hai Van Pass.  (We had not known about the Aco Pass at time of planning).  It has been a good balance between the sightseeing and travelling by bicycle.

Generally the roads we travelled were fine.  There were some very steep bits, and a few awkward areas particularly the section from Khe Sanh to Savannakhet and the Aco Pass.  The food was a little repetitive.  Sometimes we had pho for three times a day.  Each evening, we drank mainly beer, from Biere Larue, Huda Beer, Beer Lao to Beer Leo.  Stayed at good hotels in Hoi An, Hué and Pakse and simple guesthouses along the way.

The visit to the coffee farm was a bonus and one of the highlights.  We learned about organic coffee-growing and admire Bolaven Coffee's practical scheme to support poor Lao people without charity.  Help them to acquire the skills, their own home and land which will enable them to look after themselves and their families, educate the children - surely a sustainable approach to eradicating poverty?

Our timing was good.  Southeast Asia is heating up fast as the hot season approaches.  Time to head back to Europe for a summer of cycling!

Le Tour de l'Indochine: Return to Phuket

11 March 2013

We took a Thai Smile airline flight from Ubon to Phuket via Bangkok.  It is easy taking a bike on a Thai Airways domestic flight - no need for boxes and packaging.  Just release some air from the tyres and wheel the bicycle to the check-in desk.  At the destination, collect the bicycle, pump up tyres, clip in panniers, and one is ready to go.

Le Tour de l'Indochine: Route 2222 to Ubon

10 March 2013
Khong Chiam to Ubon Ratchathani

The final run into Ubon was straightforward and uneventful.  We passed villages, including one which specialised in making gongs and drums for temples.  The 2222 became rural road no. 4005 and that led straight into town to our hotel, the Phadaeng Mansion.

We had noodles for lunch at a cafe next to the hotel.  It was very popular with locals.  When there was a lull, the owner/chef poured himself a large whiskey on ice.  He sat at the counter, counting his takings over and over, meticulously arranging the banknotes.  He had a gold watch, gold bracelet and a gold necklace.  He kept a close eye on the staff.  Guess business is doing just fine!

We took the bicycles out for a short spin to see the town which apparently has the greatest concentration of Buddhist wats in Thailand.  The Moon River runs through the town.

In the evening, it seemed appropriate that we should eat at the Indochine.  Had an excellent meal of banana blossom salad with sesame rice crackers, nem, fried tofu, and the pièce de résistance was the fried fish with herbs, a crispy concoction of fresh river fish with chilli and kaffir lime leaves.  We passed on the Vietnamese Tomato Cataract, whatever that dish was.  The restaurant is in a lovely wooden house with a staircase bannister which was well-polished through years of use.  There was a singer accompanied on a piano, which gave an atmosphere of Saigon in the 1920's.  There was an antique shop on the first level, with furniture, lacquer boxes, pots, rattan suitcases etc.  After dinner, we spoke to the owner.  His mother was Vietnamese and his father Chinese.  The restaurant has been opened for 41 years.  Unfortunately, we did not have our camera with us to record the evening.

Total distance: 82km

All-white Wat Tham Khu Ha, Khong Chiam

Birds' nests on tree

Playing with gongs

Busy noodle shop on Phadaeng Road

Le Tour de l'Indochine: Where Moon River meets the Mekong

9 March 2013
Pakse to Khong Chiam

Today was the fastest ride of the trip. Leaving the hotel before 7am, after a quick cup of coffee.  We joined what seemed to be a mass exodus across the Mekong bridge.  Fortunately, they all turned left up the hill to a wat.  There is obviously a Buddhist festival.  The hotel is full this weekend with very smartly dressed ladies in white traditional dress.

Made good progress to the border.  Had a breakfast on the Thai side.  Excellent road, partly under construction.  10km after the border, we turned towards route 2173 which took us to the village of Khong Chiam, which sits on the confluence of the Mekong and Moon Rivers.

Lunch was taken in a small restaurant on the bank of the river, looking back towards Laos!  We are staying the night in a simple guesthouse.  The bikes have been cleaned and washed, ready to go on the last leg to Ubon Ratchathani.
Total distance: 73km

The brown Mekong meets .....

....the green Moon River

Le Tour de l'Indochine: Freewheeling to Pakse

8 March 2013
Actually, the first 25km was slightly uphill, about 4km of which was under construction.  After Paksong, it was largely downhill in light traffic conditions until about 15km outside Pakse.  As we descended, villages, helpfully named after their distance from Pakse, kept us in touch with the distance we had covered.
We arrived hot and covered in red dust at noon at the Athena.  We are now all brushed up and cleaned up and preparing for an early start back to Thailand.
Total distance: 76km

Drying coffee beans

Wet feet